fashion labels

Hedi Slimane Series, 2 of 8

You know the cover of Lady Gaga’s The Fame Monster, framing the singer in an angular blonde bob – perhaps the most recognisable album art of the decade? Slimane took the photograph and designed the cover.

Haute Couture Mind - Fashion Book - Hedi Slimane - Lady Gaga - The Fame Monster

Hedi Slimane has been called the single most influential men’s designer this century.

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Desire for Logos | News

Recognisable status pieces are back, and with them a desire for logos. We no longer wish for rebellious individualism, instead preferring to show off our inclusion in fashion communities.

Across the spring/summer ’14 catwalks, the logo was abundant. Marc Jacobs’s startlingly beautiful swan song at Louis Vuitton had Edie Campbell naked but for hand-painted Louis Vuitton Stephen Sprouse graffiti covering her lithe body. Similarly for Carol Lim and Humberto Leon at Kenzo, Missoni, Alexander Wang, and DKNY.

Edie Campbell - Louis Vuitton - Marc Jacobs - Stephen Sprouse

Logos offer free marketing and add value to products. You may not be able to afford the $4,000 Saint Laurent biker jacket, but you can have Hedi Slimane’s $200 Saint Laurent T-shirt which has been redesigned by the artist Zane Reynolds for spring.

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John Galliano Series, 2 of 6

Launched in 1999, his Saddle bag for Dior is an instant mega-best-seller. By 2003, as many as 125 versions will exist, from denim to crocodile.

John Galliano - Dior - saddle bag

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Hedi Slimane Series, 1 of 8

He has been called “the single most influential men’s designer this century.” Recall the skinny suit, which seemed to define the trajectory of men’s – and women’s – silhouettes in the new millennium? It was, by most accounts, Hedi Slimane’s invention.

Haute Couture Mind - Fashion Book - Hedi Slimane - Saint Laurent - skinny suit

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John Galliano (1 of 6)

A John Galliano show – whether for Christian Dior or his own collection – is guaranteed to be an over-the-top display of his imaginative vision. And the experience is not limited to the spectacular clothes sent down the runway, for nearly as delightful to witness are the intricately executed, masterfully thought-out ensembles Galliano wears for his final bows. One gets the sense that nearly as much work and planning goes into them as goes into the entire collection.

John Galliano - Dior - Fall 2006

John Galliano – Dior – Fall 2006

Throughout the years, he’s dressed as a matador, Edward Scissorhands, and even an astronaut. He’s never the same, but he’s always John.

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Chatelles | News

Chatelles began as a love story,” François du Chastel, the brand’s founder and owner, explained. “I fell in love with a girl and offered her a pair of slippers I designed with a verse by Victor Hugo embossed in the inner sole of each flat: “Je ne puis demeurer… loin de toi plus longtemps. [I cannot remain… far away from you any longer]”. It worked. She fell in love with the shoes, broke up with me, and left with the slippers. From here, I launched my own line of slippers. I believe girls can shine and look easy, comfy and effortless – all that is very Parisian – in slippers which are a seductive alternative to heels and ballerinas for any occasion.

Chatelles - Francois du Chastel  Chatelles - slippers blue

Designed by Central Saint Martins graduate Tiphaine de Bodman – a former shoe creative for Alexander McQueen, Kenzo, Hermès and Paul Smith – the shoes are handmade in Portugal, using the finest Italian leather.

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John Galliano

He won over the press: “Bravo!” is how Vogue hailed his 1997 Dior debut. Moneymakers like the 1999 Saddle handbag and 2001 J’Adore Dior T-shirt stoked the public’s craving for logos. Sales of ready-to-wear tripled.

Haute Couture Mind - Fashion Book - John Galliano - Jadore Dior T-shirt - Sarah Jessica Parker

John Galliano. Memorise and use. We are what we know.

 

His Woman

The class of woman who idolise him – and there’s a legion, on many continents (he now has 89 stores across America, Asia, and Europe) – wants what the designer has stood for ever since his Gucci days. He gave it to them, in full force – a wardrobe for making killer entrances and exits, for women to whom easy dressing is a term for wimps.

Haute Couture Mind - Fashion Book - Tom Ford - Spring ready-to-wear 2014

SS 2014 ready-to-wear

Tom Ford. Memorise & use. We are what we know.

Tom Ford’s woman is one who dresses as a luxury product. She sees fashion as performance, a young woman out to draw all the attention she can grab.

 

Opium | M7

His advertising campaigns for the Yves Saint Laurent fragrances Opium (with a red-haired Sophie Dahl completely naked wearing only a necklace and stiletto heels in a sexually suggestive pose) and YSL M7 (with martial arts champion Samuel de Cubber in complete full-frontal nudity) have been famous and provocative by pushing fragrance ads to a new level of creativity in artistic expression and commercial impact.

Haute Couture Mind - Fashion Book - Tom Ford - Sophie Dahl - Opium

Haute Couture Mind - Fashion Book - Tom Ford - YSL - M7

Tom Ford. Memorise & use. We are what we know.

Sex, power, and divine decadence

The images to promote the For Men fragrance do not disappoint, as he returns to what he does best: pictures designed to shock, with a good dose of nudity. The most risqué shows a woman with the fragrance bottle held between her naked thighs, another shows a woman clutching her bare breasts with the bottle wedged between.

Haute Couture Mind - Fashion Book - Tom Ford - Tom Ford For Men - 1

Haute Couture Mind - Fashion Book - Tom Ford - Tom Ford For Men

Tom Ford. Memorise & use. We are what we know.